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Feb.28th, a little monkey business before the first monthly Nefarious Island Rock Monkey run (March 1st 2003).


Ibby doin' the Junkyard Jig...No, this isn't my yard, but I wouldn't mind if it was!

I busted a U-joint clearing a new trail. Cody was my swamper for the run, and he pulled the drive-shaft out for me (me finger don't work to good...ah huck).

Well...in typical jo-jo fashion, I cut the old joints out to replace them, but made a boo-boo along the way. I was a little preoccupied when I was putting the cups back in for painting. On one end of the shaft, I ended up bending the yoke ears and screwing up the surface the cup sits in.

Ok...so now I have a few hours to get something going here so Brian (wwwabbit ) can use the Jeep for the Sat. N.I.R.M Run, and I could have it for trail clearing on the following day.

Hmm...what to do?
Oh...hey, I have another CJ5 rear drive-shaft...oops, this one is a lot longer. OK, so I decide to try my hand at shortening a shaft.

I cut the shaft down to the size I wanted, and cut the splined end off, cleaned up the mating surface and stuck it back on the shaft.

I rotated the shaft to see if it was true. It wasn't totally straight so I tapped on the splined end with a chunk of led, and got it as close as I could. I was a little pressed for time so no dial indicator and pickiness here, just got it about right and tack welded it with a 6013 rod.

I finished welding it with TIG, and then my driveshaft installer (Cody) put in new U-joints and reinstalled the shaft. But not before another little problem: When I broke the shaft the weekend before, we didn't notice that the yoke on the Dana 300 was buggered too.

This brings up the reason why the U-joint failed in the first place. Dana 300s for this application used a strap style U-joint retaining method. The bolts that thread into the yoke had come loose, and allowed the cups on the u-joint to spit out (use a thread locking compound if you are stuck with these buggas).

A much better method is the use of U-bolts on the U-joint and yoke. These run through the yoke and are secured with a nuts on the otherside.

A quick look through my collection of Jeep parts by Ibby yielded a yoke with U-bolts off a Dana 20 transfer case. Nice......another Quick&Dirty® mod without even having to go more than 20ft. to source the parts needed.


A Quick&Dirty® weld job on Timo's Grand Vitara's lift kit

Cody cutting the u-joints out of a donor drive shaft slip yoke

Professor Ibby, Master's degree in Dremel Arts

Ibby's carnage thanks to Brian's Toyota

Just one of the many carnage happenin's at the Pink Barn

Test driving the new shaft in the driveway

Ibsen TIGin'

The busted yoke on the Dana 300

jo-jo TIGin' the shortened/longer than stock shaft

Timo always looked up to Luke Skywalker when he was a kid...nice to see some things never change

Just a minor problem, but bad enough to toast this puppy

After reassembling everything, and a test drive down the highway with no vibrations I was pretty happy.

The next day, Brian drove the Jeep without incident, and later that day I put it to task as you can see in the N.I.R.M Run report for March 1st 2003 (coming soon).

I also beat on it pretty good the following day while trail exploring. It would appear that I did a decent job on the shortening, and Cody did a good job on the install.

This is a little teaser for now, but I am going to build a beefed rear shaft using a mixture of Ford and AMC stuff (Spicer stuff really, just from different applications).

 


Written by jo-jo

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