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Stock (except for wheels) (Apr. 04)

Cheap(er) Jeep TJ Lift
Written by Chad T. (aka Owlman)

Specs:

1998 Jeep TJ Sahara
4.0L
5spd.
Hardtop and softop

Objective:

Lift it 2-3" to gain more ground clearance and run 32 or 33" rubber for the mild to medium wheeling I want to do, but to maintain near stock on-road ride.

Sticker Shock Time:

I priced out a 2" spacer lift and it was about $350 for the RE.

A lift with new coils was going to cost a lot more
1) BDS 3" lift system with shocks (KITTJ3A-BDS): $937.96
2) Rubicon Express 3.5" Superflex lift system (RE7003) : $1,180.00 shocks not included

Research Time:

I started searching the internet and found a few guys who put ZJ V8 front coils in the front of the TJ and moved the stock TJ fronts to the rear.
It gave him 3" of lift (4cyl ST model).
I really didn't like the idea of the smaller diameter front coils in the rear. so I did more research on the 'net and some spring catalogs, and found out that late model Ford Crown Victoria (what most cop cars and taxis are) rear coils are an "almost" perfect fit and give about 3-3.5" of lift in the rears.

Now there are two routes I could have gone here, new or used parts. I decided to go new because springs aren't that expensive and getting the rears out of a Crown Vic. that could of had a million miles of hauling people....well they would be pretty much done for already.

The Parts:

Off to the parts store I went and ordered the springs and a set of Rancho 5000's from their 2.5" lift kit (shocks for a 3" kit would have been fine to.
Some people told me that the 5000's were a bit soft for a TJ, which is why I went with them, after all I was putting ZJ V8 springs in the front and I didn't want a harsh ride.

Install:

I could go into more detail about the install but it was no different then any other lift, and there are a lot of pages out there describing all that.

The front springs (Moog Tuff Coils #CC-782) are only about 1/2" taller then the stock TJ's, but much thicker and don't compress as much under normal loads.

The rears (Moog Cargo Coils #CC-817) were a little more of a chore, the CV springs were at least 1.5 times as tall and the bottom loop needed to be ground out about 1/32" to fit over the TJ's bottom coil locator (I ground them out just enough that they fit real snug).
Once the springs were ready they went in without a hitch.

All the brake lines were plenty long enough, only thing tight was the rear dif breather hose.

After bolting everything up and doing an alignment (it was toed in a mile), I installed a custom made 1" T-case drop (lots of vibes without) and away I went not even 5 hours later.

Results:

I netted about 3-3.25" in the front and almost 4" in the rear.

The rear end sat about an inch higher then the fronts (with soft top and 1/2 tank of gas) so I installed some 3/4" poly spacers ($50) to level it out more. Once I put the hard top back on it sits perfectly level. If I only had a soft top I would have probably gone with the 1" spacers.

On the road ride, I probably wouldn't have really noticed if I didn't know better.

Off-road (gravel roads and such) it was just as good if not better then stock.
In order to do well on the trails with open diffs (LSD in the rear of mine) the amount of articulation you have is vital. This setup in combination with my driving style (mellow and steady on the "go" pedal) has worked very well for me. Many experienced off-roaders have commented on how well my otherwise stock jeep performs on the trails.

Overview:

Things you NEED or NEED TO DO are:
1) Springs and shocks
2) Extended front swaybar links (I broke both of mine on the first trail run), and you might as well get disconnecting ones.
3) A come-a-long to pull the axles over to re-attach the trackbars (the front is no biggy, but the rear is out a bit).
4) Alignment RIGHT AWAY, do not do without this, it may cost you your life, not to mention your tires.
5) Install extended bump stops in the front to prevent tire to fender contact. I used 2 hockey pucks on each side (cause I'm Canadian eh!), and bolted them to the lower spring cup. This limits things enough that my 33/10.50R-15's only rub the flairs when turning hard and fully compressed.

Things you SHOULD get when $ permits:
1) Relocater bracket for rear track bar
2) Extended rear sway bar links (although I just removed mine completely as it is just tiny anyway)

 


First Time Out (Stock)


Before & After Shots

Flex Shot 1

Flex Shot 2

Flex Shot 3

Feb. 05

Almost a year later

Well, after wheeling 2 or 3 weekends a month, I am still very happy with the above setup. I have since done an SYE and gotten rid of the t-case drop, installed a bumper/winch combo, and sliders and few other little things, but the suspension remains the same.

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